Friday, January 01, 2010

New Year's Day Rose Pruning

This is considered the "wrong time" to prune roses. However, I see it done now, and earlier, around my neighborhood and their's do fine. The theory is that early pruning stimulates early, frost sensitive growth. That tender growth uses the plant's stored sugars, and when the new grow freezes and dies, there's nothing left for replacement growth.

Maybe my neighbors created a Darwinian evolution, with the easily killed varieties now dead, and the varieties that tolerate midwinter pruning thriving. Whatever the case, waiting longer means more work in the Spring, so I also pruned one of our two rose beds. Most of these are David Austin, own-root varieties. A few are rustled (home cuttings from a bouquet or rogue bush in the treeway), also own-root. A couple are grafted tea or florabundas.

Difficult to see them in the jumble. Heights from 3 to 6 feet tall.

Some modern authors recommend just cutting back a little, with shears, and not being too specific with what is cut. I suspect they haven't tried this method organically. I try to remove all dead and diseased canes, and all crossing or misdirected canes, and generally thin a little. I also cut them back more. My theory is that I'm removing more disease potential, and since I grow organically I don't use any toxic sprays. There may be fewer or less humongous blossoms, but there are plenty and I like them as they are.

After, most are now 1 foot tall. A few grocery-store miniatures, that I felt sorry for and planted about 5 years ago, I pruned almost to the ground. Tamora, a rank-growing David Austin variety, I basically pruned to 2 feet and didn't thin much. Too difficult now and I was wearing out. Scepter'ed Isle, another own-root David Austin variety, had grown to 6 ft tall. I pruned it back to about 2 feet, it was just way too tall.

Dendrobium orchid, and a book review

This week I saw this one at Trader Joes. I'm much pickier now, since I seem to have at least one of each of the readily available, home-grower-friendly genus / intergeneric hybrids. If subsequent seasons result in a mini-Cattleya, laeliocattleya, or similar small home-friendly variety; or a miniCymbidium, I might add those. But the current collection is enough to see if they will actually grow and rebloom in my home setting.

Authors differ on whether to repot new orchids on purchase. I did, moving this plant into a ceramic orchid pot with many holes in the sides. Maybe should have sought a bigger one, this had a small amount of extra room but not much. By planting in an orchid pot, I think I'm less likely to cause rot diseases by overwatering.

I've been using a standard Ortho orchid food at recommended strength, about half of the time when I water. The package recommends using every time, but it seems excessive in winter. I also used a standard orchid bark-based mix for the repotting.

For some reason, I like the cane-type pseudobulb varieties (Dendrobium group) and pseudobulb varieties (Oncidium) more than the rosette and other monopodals. I don't know why I prefer these. Plus, Paphiopedilum are rosette-type, and I like them. No accounting for my own taste, I just like them more. The cane-type have an almost bamboo-like appearance.

Book Review.
I bought a book at Safeway, "Easy Orchids" by Mimi Luebbermann. It's a nice little book, lots of pictures (which is why I bought it), and discusses briefly numerous of the easy-to-grow types. A fun book to read and keep for later browsing.

Traditional New Years Day Grape Pruning

Each year, I prune grapevines on New Year's Day. It's a good way to remember to do it. Plus, I don't have to remember "It seemed to work last year, but when did I do it?". Despite aches and pains, I pruned. Carefully.

Observations this year: There are a lot more dead canes and spurs than I've seen before. Must be the record cold in November - down to 12 degrees, several days. Venus appears the most susceptable, but all varieties had some dieback.

For the most part, I kept to the spur method, leaving new stems with 2 buds past the initial growth. Last year there were too many grapes, so I thinned some spurs to 1 to 2 new stems. In addition, I removed some larger branches from Canadice, which I don't like as much, and left a new cane from Venus, which I like better, to fill in. I also left 2 replacement canes on Interlaken, which I like a lot; same for Price - my favorite of all. On Price, I may have left too many spurs, but it started raining. Plus, Price clusters are smaller, so more spurs may be a good idea.

The larger grape arbor, before pruning. Canadice on left, Interlaken on right, and Venus on left, in back.

Grape arbor after pruning. Some of the canes were twice my height, so 12 feet of growth. Without major pruning, they would quickly get out of hand.

Price grape, before pruning.

Price grape, after pruning. I left a couple of canes as well, in case too many spurs died.

Working from home

Working at home. Admittedly, on my "Day off". However, assuming that I'm going to work anyway, and it's all on the computer, there are some advantages:



1. Comfort. I can use the more casual furniture and be much more comfortable.
2. My loyal companion is there to keep me company in a good way.
3. No interruptions and derailment. I work much, much more efficiently.
4. I can keep the heating pad going for my multiple aches.
5. It's really more ergonomic.
6. I have my "jungle" to keep my spirits lifted.
7. Even though I've posted it on the internet, my office is MY office, a private place where no one can interfere, evaluate me, pass judgement on my decisions.


8. I love watching the birds at the feeders. Unfortunately, when I grab the camera, they all fly away. So here's just one. It's very relaxing and lifts the spirits, when I see motion from the corner of my visual field, look up, and there are the birds. My workspace faces the window.

9. Did I mention my loyal companion, Charlie?
10. No gas burned getting there.
11. No need to bring meals or eat out.
12. No traffic hassles.
13. When I do break from the issue at hand, it's to do something that regenates me, rather than derails me.

So I don't mind too much, working at home. And I am happy that it's a bit greener than working at work.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

My Tomatoes for 2010: first thoughts /catalog

Uh oh. Burpee catalog came. Temptation is SO strong. I think I will be assimilated. Resistance is futile.

With tomatoes, I generally go with the following:

Traditional hybrid - for sentimental reasons, usually Better Boy 72 days.
Heritage Black - usually Cherokee Black or Black Krim, 80 days
Hybrid Yellow - usually Lemon Boy
Traditional Cherry - usually Supersweet 100, 70 days

Those are all highly reliable in my garden. Then, I usually add something new, mix of hybrid and heritage. From the Burpee catalog, here are my current temptations:

BrandyBoy Hybrid - Burpee states, 78 days, Brandywine with disease resistance and productivity added

Northern Exposure, 78 days, bred for cool short summers.

Fourth of July, 49 days, wow, that's early!

Black Pearl, 65 days, hybrid cherry

Red Lightening, 82 days, striped salad tomato, for novelty.

The list may change, but I like the variety, and combination of "old faithful" reliable, tasty varieties that I like plus some experimentation for earliness and novelty.

Sunday, December 27, 2009

Garden Resolutions 2010

Working on garden resolutions to mark New Year's 2010. It's a good time for resolutions and plans. Starting with the challenges and successes of 2009, what changes should we make?

Challenges - much of the garden had to be neglected, especially during summer and fall. The limited time for the garden meant there were more weeds, it looked more untidy, and there was lost opportunity for mental rejuvenation. By planning ahead, I hope to reduce some maintenance and have a better looking an more productive yard.

During the winter months, there isn't much to do with the growing plants. However, I can get in more pruning, so it won't have to happen when the garden is busier. In addition, I can get beds cleaned up and mulched. One challenge is the cat(s) using much for litter box. I don't mind, but digging up the mulch results in more weeds. Maybe chicken wire covering the mulch? Haven't decided.

This year the tomatoes, my favorite crop, were poor producers. This may have been due to planting the tomato bed too many years in a row - probably 5 years. So they'll be moved. We'll build new raised beds on the South side of the house, add chicken compost, and these will be designated tomato beds. This is also a warmer and sunnier location, so there will be benefit in microclimate as well.

The peaches were the best ever, but I left too many on the trees. Lesson learned, thin them early to 1 or 2 per 6-inch stem. Same for apples.

Garden Resolutions, 2010:

1. I resolve to continue the tradition of normal New Year's grape pruning (note to spine: please cooperate. Up movements seem OK, it's typing, like now, that's killing me). The pruning will be more extensive this year, to limit # of grape bunches. There were too many in 2009. Limiting #s should mean larger, juicier grapes.

2. I resolve to complete rose pruning in January. This is normally delayed for later, but my neighbor's roses do fine with this early pruning, so it's time to get it out of the way so that there are fewer things to do in Spring. If this kills a rose bush or 2 or 3.... well, that's more room to try something new.

3. I resolve to insert barriers around raspberries (for spreading branbles). and at least one fig tree (for roots). These barriers will mean less maintenance to control invasive vines and roots.

4. I resolve to get everything ready for tomato seedlings, during the winter. That way, if it's busy when time to plant the seeds, all that I will need to do is actually plant the seeds. Less delay, better potential crop.

5. I resolve to improve hardscaping with better edging in front yard, to keep out weeds.

6. Based on what went well, the peaches are already covered with plastic. I intend to use last year's blog post to guide in removal of cover.

7. New fruits: as discussed previously, I have already determined locations for mulberry and the 2 additional miniature apple trees.

8. I resolve to make another attempt at apple grafting. Last year was not successful. I think part of the reason was the scions were transported at room temperature for >24 hours. If I can get some mid winter, I'll plan to transport them on ice. Alternatively, there may be some local trees to graft. My "neighbor tree" graft had excellent tasting, although small, apples this year. I could use more of those.

9. I resolve to pause with a day or 2 off work, at least every other month, planned ahead, truly set aside for self regeneration. If I can, a week off to stay at home.

10. I resolve to revisit this list later, for further plans and adjustments.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Winter Solstice


Photo from wikipedia here. Photo of Stonehenge in 1877.

This posting is a week late, but I wanted to acknowledge the Solstice. For ancient peoples, as the days became shorter and shorter, the sun dimmer, the weather colder and chillier, and life in general gloomier, the solstice represented an end to the decline, and the beginning of seasonal rebirth.

In modern times, we are more removed from nature. We have the advantages of technology and modern civilization. We artifically brighten our days, and work hours that the ancients could not imagine. Even though we aren't being overrun by Vikings and Romans, and even though we have vaccines and medicines, the short days, dimmer sunlight, gloom and discomfort of winter affects us. At least, it affect me.

When I acknowledge the solstice, I acknowledge that it's the start of a new year. Better than New Year's day, better than religious holidays, Solstice is the moment when the planet and sun are seen to continue their cycle and influence our lives.

I'm glad for the start of a new Year, following solstice. Time to think about how I'll live it.

Book Review #2. "Backyard Fruits and Berries"

After giving a barely lukewarm review of another book (click on label "Book Reviews", I wanted to choose a book that I felt more positive about. Here is one. Others are expected to follow.

Again, this book covers the subject of the title. Backyard Fruits and Berries, by Miranda Smith. I bought it locally, but it was not at the bookstore when I looked last week. Available on Amazon.com here.

This is a well packaged book with lots of drawings and photos - a benefit for me. The initial chapters discuss placement of fruit trees, preparation of the site before planting, digging the hole, and planting the trees. The illustration on page 35 is in line with my understanding of how trees should be planted, and shows the concept well. There are chapters on tree care, including mulching, pruning, training. Some of the illustrated techniques are appropriate for the Backyard Orchardist, such as fan-shape, cordon, and espalier, but no discussion of the Backyard Orchard Culture method, including summer pruning, close planting, and maintaining small size. That concept (click on labels for Backyard Orchard Culture, and Dave Wilson Nurseries) is probably just too new for wide publication in books. I mention it here because I expect it to be central to home fruit growers in the future.

There is also a section on grafting. This is great! Also, propagating by cuttings. Any book that empowers the backyard gardener to grow their own, choosing varieties based on their neighbor's or family's experiences, is welcomed. For the avid home orchardist, to share their favorite varieties, and to try new ones by grafting or cuttings, even if they don't know the variety's name, is very welcome.

The sections on disease and insect control are rich with photos, and organically-inclined. Also a plus. I don't like reading about insects and disease damage, because it makes me wonder how we get any fruit at all - but we do, and it's great to see the organic approach.

Fruit specific sections include the usuals, and some unusuals, including apples, apricots, cherries, citrus, figs, pears, plums, and many types of vines and berries.
It includes Asian pears, which I think are an "up and coming fruit" for the home gardener. The plum varieties include European and Asian as well. Sour and sweet cherries are discussed separately - a sensible division given that there are some cultural differences.

The one drawback is already mentioned - Some day we'll need a book which emphasizes summer pruning, multi-tree-in-one-hole methods, and overall philosophy of Backyard Orchard Culture also here. This would include experiences outside of the area where this concept originated, because what works in California may not work, or may require other nuances, elsewhere.

I couldn't find a section on multigraft trees. Many books discourage multigraft, because one variety often overpowers the others. However, the small home orchard is based partly on more involved management, including pruning, and the multigraft may be the best, least expensive, and most reasonable way to have multiple varieties and polinator trees, in a small space. That oversight is minor.

I give "Backyard Fruits and Berries" an "A". It is one of my favorites.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Book Review: "The Fruit Expert"

I like reading books about gardening methods. The different books all have their pros and cons. Looking at the local bookstores, the garden sections seems to be getting smaller, so it's useful to have a bibliography of useful books. Amazon isn't the same as browsing through a book, it's difficult to tell what you might get.

So here's a review of one that I use from time to time. "The Fruit Expert" by Dr. D.G. Hessayon

Availability: This book is currently available at Amazon.com. I don't know current availability at bookstores.

Copyright: 2004

This book is written for the British gardener / home orchardist, although I found many sections useful for my own, Pacific NW garden. It is organized by the fruit type, and includes a forward on planting and an afterward on fruits that can be purchased from the store.

The planting method appears to match with other resources, although the author recommends a planting mix of soil+peat+bone meal. I think that current literature recommends not amending the soil, or not amending it much, because over-rich and over-loose planting mixture can lead to a 'flowerpot-effect', keeping the roots inside the hole and leading to a swampy soggy pocket in the hole. I have never seen that happen either, but now I only add minimal amendment to my planting mix.

Fruit varieties: The author discusses most of the major fruit types, including apple, apricot, cherries, pears, figs, plums, peaches, berries, and soft fruits or berries. The varieties won't generally be appropriate to the American gardener. The pruning section is "OK" but does not discuss summer pruning or backyard orchard culture, which I think is essential for the backyard gardener. The fig section was discouraging, probably due to limited usefullness in the UK. There is nothing on Asian Plums or Asian Pears. I don't know if these grow in the UK. The disease section contains many useful photos. This is not a book for the organically minded.

Overall grade: "C". Interesting for a book that is labeled "The world's best selling book on fruit". The photos are nice to look at. The planting method does not appear up to date. The pruning methods are not up to date or the best for the backyard gardener. The varieties are not useful to the American gardener.

I didn't realize until now, how poor this book is. I actually get it out and read it now and then, but there are better resources for either the novice or the expert.

Orchid report

This is the Oncidium that I repotted in the fall, thinking I was about to kill it either from bad timing or neglect. After initially potting in sphagnum, I read that sphagnum leads to rot, so I repotted it again in bark-based medium. Then left it to grow in an East exposure window. The newest pseudobulb is now the biggest, the new leaves are the greenest, and the start of a flower spike has begun to peek out at the first leaf. Cool or what! It's now in my home office, south window. With Northwest winters, even the southern exposure shouldn't be too much in Dec/Jan.

Backbulb start, taken from above Oncidium. Started in sphagnum, then potted into bark 2 weeks ago. Appears to be growing nicely. I think that sphagnum is OK for backbulb starts, since they need more moisture and there is thought to be antifungal/antibacterial property to sphagnum. Even if it takes a year or two to bloom, it is very cool to have started it myself!


One of the new oncidiums developed a pseudobulb infection, so is in quarantine. The good news is that I had decided I didn't like that one anyway/